December 27th Log

Dec 27th Pics

Have I mentioned the Le Meridien Pyramids is a nice hotel? Well, it is. I slept better last night than I have in weeks. It's a wonderful place and you should stay here if you come to Cairo. The staff are amazing. They are extremely helpful, courteous, and polite. Wonderful, wonderful hotel. And a great view!

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I started my morning with breakfast in the lounge. I enjoyed some fresh orange juice, smoke salmon, cereal and pastries. Very nice. Finally, some decent food.

My guide and driver showed up at 9 AM and we headed towards Saqqara and Memphis. Along the way, there is a large amount of agriculture. We passed by many farmers with donkey-drawn carriages on their way to the fields. All along the way, there are many market stands selling all types for fresh produce. Everything is very green. It's good to be in Egypt.

Drive to Saqqara

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Our first stop today is at Saqqara and the Step Pyramid of Djoser. The Step Pyramids is the oldest in Egypt, which seems like a good place to start my tour. At each area we stopped today, there is a charge. For this one, it was 35 LE, which is about $6. My guide asked me to tip the guard 1 pound, which is no big deal to me now after coming from India.

From Eyewitness Travel Guides Egypt

Saqqara is one of the richest archaeological sites in Egypt. Its monuments span 3,000 years, for the earliest ancient Egyptian funerary structures to Coptic monasteries. Saqqara developed as the royal necropolis for the Old Kingdom capital of Memphis, just to the west. As Memphis grew, so did this city of the dead until it covered  an area of 7 km (4 miles), north to south. While Saqqara continued to be used as a burial site for officials for a time, it was eventually abandoned and, apart from Djoser's pyramid, lay buried under sand for centuries. Then, in 1851, Auguste Mariette discovered the Serapeum, since when regular finds have been made at Saqqara.

The centerpiece of the Saqqara necropolis is the Step Pyramid of Djoser, the prototype for the pyramids of Giza and all other pyramids that followed. This remarkable structure was built for 3rd-Dynasty King Djoser by his architect, the high priest Imhotep, in the 27th century BC. It marks an unprecedented leap forward in the history of world architecture. Until then, Egyptian royal tombs had been underground rooms covered with low, flat, mud-brick mastabas. The great innovator Imhotep chose to use stone rather than mudbrick, and to built not just one mastabas but six, one on top of the other, with each additional layer smaller than the one beneath it.

Step Pyramid

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In the same complex, when next headed over to the Pyramid of Titi. One is able to go inside of this one, a pretty unique experience. My travel book spells it Teti, but the sign outside the pyramid says Titi, so I'm sure that's correct. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to take pictures inside.

From Eyewitness Travel Guides Egypt

From the outside, the pyramid of Teti, first king of the 6th Dynasty, looks like nothing more than a  mound of rubble. However, it is worth visiting for its burial chamber, which contains the king's well-preserved giant basalt sarcophagus. The ceiling of the chamber is decorated with stars, and the walls are inscribed with sections of Pyramid Texts. Though found in several pyramids on the Saqqara site, this is currently the only place where these ancient funerary writings are accessible to the public.

Pyramid of Titi

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Well, of course, it's time for a little shopping. My guide took me to a carpet making school. Nice work, but I didn't need a carpet before I came to Egypt, and I don't need one now.

Carpet Making School

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The drive over to the Memphis site was quick. After learning about the site, I went inside a small museum that had a huge statue of Ramses II. While I was taking pictures, one of the locals insisted that I take a picture of him with the statue. Two pounds, please kind sir.

From Eyewitness Travel Guide Egypt

The ancient city of Memphis was the capital of Egypt during the old Kingdom and most of the Pharonic period. It is thought it was founded in about 2100 BC by King Menes, the ruler responsible for uniting Upper and Lower Egypt. Situated at the head of the Nile Delta, this majestic city controlled important overland and river routes. While Thebes (the site of modern day Luxor) became the center of Egypt during the New Kingdom, Memphis was still an important administrative and commercial center until well into the Ptolemaic era. What little has been discovered at Memphis is gathered together in a small open-air museum in the village of Mit Rahnina. The showpiece is a colossal limestone statue of Ramses II found in Memphis and replicated in Midan Ramses. In the garden there are more statues of Ramses II and an 18th-Dynasty sphinx, at 80 tons the largest calcite statue ever found.

Memphis

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After visiting Memphis, it must be time for more shopping. This time, a papyrus paper shop. They showed me how the cut the papyrus, prepare it, and make paper out of it. Then they do some very nice painting. They will even put your name on it in Egyptian - and because it's the holidays, I'll get a special discount.

Finally, onto the Giza Plateau and the Great Pyramid. It's amazing how huge it is. The pictures I have seen don't really give you the scale. An amazing site - definitely one of the worlds of the world. If you have the time, you can go inside. Maybe when I came back. After spending some time here, we went to the other two pyramids. I hope you enjoy the pictures. I should enjoyed taking them.

From Eyewitness Travel Guides Egypt

The facts of Khufu's pyramid, commonly referred to as the Great Pyramid, are staggering. It is estimated to contain over two million blocks of stone weighing on average around 2.5 tons, which some stones at the base weighing as much as 15 tons. Until the 19th century it was the tallest building in the world. Yet for such a vast structure the precision is amazing - the greatest difference in length between the four 230-m (756 ft) sides is only 4 cm (2 inches). The construction methods and exact purpose of some of the chambers and shafts are unknown, but the fantastic architectural achievement is clear. For preservation purposes, each of the pyramids is closed for a spell on a rotating basis and the number of visitors allowed inside is limited. Early morning is therefore the best time to visit, before the heat and the crowds become unbearable.

The Giza Plateau: The Great Pyramid

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Next, of course, is the Sphinx.

From Eyewitness Travel Guides Egypt

Standing guard at the approach to the Pyramid of Khafre, the Sphinx is the earliest known monumental sculpture of ancient Egypt. Archaeologists date it to around 2500 BC, crediting Khafre as the inspiration. It stands 20 m (66 ft) high with an elongated body, outstretched paws and a royal headdress framing a fleshy face, possibly that of the king himself. It is carved from an outcrop of natural rock, augmented by shaped blocks around the base, added during repeated renovations from the 18th Dynasty onwards.

Although it is often written that the Sphinx's nose was shot off by the Mamluks, Ottomans or Napoleon's  French Army, it was in fact lost some time before the 15th century. Originally the Sphinx also had a stylized false beard, symbol of royalty, but that too fell off. A piece taken from where it lay on the sand is now held by the British Museum in London.

The Sphinx

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As luck would have it, we have time for one for stop for shopping. This time, to an Egyptian bazaar. I actually bought something, can you believe it? I got a small bust of Ramses II. Back to the hotel, some Tex Mex (which was pretty good), a couple of beers, update my daily log, and get to sleep.

An another amazing day.

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